James L. Parrish
has been involved with routine and exceptional repair and maintenance of the
Ludlow Typograph since the early 1950’s.
Still today he offers machine service to numerous customers throughout
the U.S. He has prepared the
copyrighted article below to give advice to the novice on what to look for when
purchasing a Ludlow machine. Jim is the
author of THE LUDLOW TROUBLE-SHOOTING
GUIDE – 129 pages fully illustrated - $65.00 U.S.
It
is very difficult in short form to advise a potential seller or purchaser of
Ludlow equipment of all the important factors to consider. Price generally is the most important
consideration. It also is the most
difficult factor to establish.
A good Ludlow can be bought from an
anxious seller for $300.00 to $750.00.
Best buys are from large companies which consider the equipment surplus
and want to be rid of it.
Most of us have a tendency to think
only of the machine, not realizing it is a “system” and its market value is
better established by what is with the machine. These items include:
n Typeface selection. Matrices are a most important consideration
as to cost and use. While the machine
may be available at an attractive price, purchase may not be wise if
accompanying mats are not proper for your intended use. Most small fonts (6 through 18 points) are
in demand and generally sell on the open market for $300.00 or more if in good
condition. Larger fonts can be found
for $35.00 to $150.00 each.
n Cleaning Kit. This is an absolute requirement for machine
operation. One should avoid buying from
a seller who plans to continue using other Ludlow machines. He may have several machines but only one
cleaning kit: a new kit cost several
hundred dollars.
n Spare Parts. Replacement parts and supplies can be quite
expensive. The seller may place little
value on extra parts, but a well stocked parts drawer represents tremendous
value to the buyer.
n The machine. Don’t consider buying a machine without
prior inspection. This should include
complete electrical tests of each heater and control component, physical
examination of each cam, lever and gear and – if possible – operation of the
machine under power.
n Mold and cooling system. Turn on the motor and observe the water
flow. On the Model L this can be observed
by lifting the lid on the rear of the water tank. The Model M requires loosening of a fitting at the mold before
turning the motor on to insure flow.
Hold a cup or can under the loosened fitting to catch any water that
hopefully comes out. Retighten the
fitting. Next cast a line and listen
for a sizzle when the mouthpiece contacts the mold. This would indicate a water leak on the bottom of the mold where
its two components join.
Cast three of four lines using
re-cast. Lift the top and feel the surface
of the mold. Both left and right sides
of the mold should equally cool. If the
left side remains hot, a water flow problem is indicated. If the mold is not seriously damaged
otherwise, this can be repaired for about $150.00.
n Plunger. Observe its movement and its sound when a
cast is made. It should drop about ¾ of an inch and stop with a definite
“thump”. If it seems “mushy” and drops
further, serious wear is indicated.
Replacement will cost about $175.00.
n Mouthpiece. With the motor turned off, thoroughly clean
the top surface of the mouthpiece with a stiff wire brush. The vents (horizontal indentations on each
side of the slot) should be clearly defined.
These vents allow ait to escape before any molten metal can be
pumped. If the mouthpiece is worn, the
vents do not function in direct proportion to the wear. A replacement will cost about $350.00. Used mouthpieces are available for $100.00
and up, but check before purchasing.
Inspect for vent definition.
Measure the T-head. It should
measure at least .315. If it is less
than .310 then the machine cannot be adjusted to compensate.
n Machine models Most comments relate to models L and M. I don’t have enough experience with the
newer Model “N”. Introduced in the mid
80’s, but it never got off the ground.
Model L: Slanted table top, five gallon water
tank on lower left end of machine frame.
Single crucible thermostat.
Rheostat control for the throat/mouthpiece located above the electrical
panel on the rear of the machine. Plunger
has single spring. Original paint: dark
blue/gray. Best buy: serial number
12300 and up. Good buy: 10200 to 12300.
Very old machines have square
electrical panel box; electrical components almost impossible to replace. Most have a “hole type” mouthpiece similar
to a Linotype and cannot be converted to the superior slotted type with
funnel. Manufactured prior to 1932 with
serial number under 3200.
Later models (serial numbers 3300 to
10100) have a slotted mouthpiece and a rectangular (vertical) electrical panel
box. The panel cover has a rounded top
and top corners. This panel includes
two black resistors located above the fuses.
These control the on/off position of the heavy duty magnetic relay
(crucible heat) located at the top of the panel and are, in turn, controlled by
the thermostat. All electrical
components are hard to get and very expensive.
Later models (serial numbers 12300
and up), have simplified electrical system in a rectangular panel box. This panel cover has square corners.
NOTE: Any serial preceded by a ZERO indicates the
machine has been factory rebuilt. This
could mean a machine with a low serial number has been updated and may still be
a good buy.
MODEL M: Flat (level) top with one or two lock down
knobs, self contained refrigerated 2.5 gallon water cooler separate from
machine. Dual thermostat, controls two
magnetic relays located in the electrical panel box. Two plunger springs.
Original paint: light mottled
gray. Best buy: serial numbers 16000 to 16500, made from
1965 to 1966. Has rear table
latch. Good buy: serial numbers 16600 to 17900, made from
1966 to 1968. Has no rear table
latch. Poor buy: serial numbers 18000 and up. These machines do not have a crucible spring
(a large heavy duty spring at the front of the crucible above the cam
rollers). This design flaw results in
seriously worn cams and a rapid deterioration of the machine in general. If wear has not been excessive, the missing
spring can be added for about $75.00, thus eliminating the flaw.
n Electrical configuration. Most Ludlow machines were wired for 240
volt service. If installed on a 208
volt service, they will require nearly twice as much time to heat up and the
controls will deteriorate quickly. A
normal melt out time is 45 minutes.
n Gas pots. These are relatively rare.
If a gas machine has been well maintained, it is probably a good buy at
a practical price. Gas-fired machines
can be difficult to operate but are more trouble-free and less expensive to
maintain. Be sure your orifice is
correct for the gas you will be using.
Most often commercial areas have natural gas: it is a simple procedure to change an orifice for the use of
propane gas.